Please help turbo V8 question

[Rekless]

Can I turbo a carburated small block chevy? I can get headers and turbos, but really really dont want to do the FI to it. It gets real expensive real quick.
So let me know all you turbo geniuses. I know chevys but not turbos.
Thanks

[Blackmilk]

Yours answers are there : http://www.2quicknovas.com/turbos.html
It's the best site I ever found about low-budget V8 turbo

What means FI?

[TTA-Matt]

i just sold my trans am with the 301 T engine. 4,9 liter plus rochester quadrajet carb. maybe you can do something with this carb?

[nx468]

FI (Fuel Injection) Boyd. And I dont blame you not wanting to go FI , get a nice blow through carb save a ton of money. Heres the best blow through carb your going to find Rekless http://www.pro-system.com/ you can buy one of theirs or send your carb to them and they can make it blow through and rework it for your weight gear ratios and everything your wanting to do with the carb. I plan on getting a F2 procharger and a nice 1050 4150 blow through Pro systems this summer. I have a few buddies that have sent them their 4500 Dominators and they picked up .5 tenths or better and they only charged like 430 bucks.

[Blackmilk]

Anyone knows a good forum/site about turbo chevy?
Ty

[nx468]

Originally Posted by Boyd

Anyone knows a good forum/site about turbo chevy?
Ty

http://www.racingjunk.com/forums is really good to find vendors or people selling the headers and turbos and general decision on engine building and design for forced induction.
http://www.turboneticsinc.com/
http://www.turbocalculator.com/index.html

Hope those help ya.

[Blackmilk]

nx468, thanks, I appreciate

[nx468]

No problemo , Im always up for talking about Small Blocks , Big Blocks ...Im a fan of all.

But Chevys are my speciality.

[Still_Good]

For the record, FI, also stands for forced induction.

The kind of work (tuning wise) for this project is very extensive, even on a I4 that's already fuel injected, and even already forced ind. fuel injection.

If you need to ask such questions, you should seriously reconder doing the project, or have a second motor already ready, in anticipation of the first one's death.

[nx468]

Originally Posted by Still_Good

For the record, FI, also stands for forced induction.

The kind of work (tuning wise) for this project is very extensive, even on a I4 that's already fuel injected, and even already forced ind. fuel injection.

If you need to ask such questions, you should seriously reconder doing the project, or have a second motor already ready, in anticipation of the first one's death.

Well breaking in a motor either Solid (Flat Tappet) Cam or Solid Roller in any Small block or Big Block. Takes normally 15 minutes of run time in a Solid Cam also a Hydraulic between the rpms of 1800-2000. Spinning a rod or main cap bearing from fresh engine shavings would take someone who didnt know what they are doing and trashing on the motor within the break in time. Now a Solid Roller you dont need to worry about break in time due to lack of friction on the spin of the cam lobes. Personally I run a Solid Roller for about 10 mins at 2k rpms then drain the oil inspect it also pull apart the oil filter and inspect it as well making sure its grabbed alot of the shavings or to make sure theres not lot of extra or heavy shavings. Main things to focus on any engine build to watch for is cleaning the block , crank , pistons and rods even when coming fresh from the machine shop and making sure all the spinning parts are assembled with fresh oil and break in lube. If personally I was going to slap a turbo on a fresh motor I would not slap the compressor hoses to the intake before I even flipped the switch or turned the key. Due to you first want to make sure the motor is in proper timing and also not alot of strain on the fresh parts normally the bottom end. I would do everything I listed above and then go from there and see what its going to do and respond from there slap the compressor hose to the intake. If you do everything listed above and grenade the motor then A you dont know what your doing or B you like throwing money away. But when you hear the knocks it best to shut it down cause you know you have spun a bearing. Cheaper to replace a bearing then a block , crank , rod you get the idea.

PS I think in this case he was meaning Fuel Injection due to the carbs , but your right its a 2 way street.

I can go on but that should some it up .

[Still_Good]

I was actaully speaking to the tuning process, of tuning air/fuel mixture for maximum performance.
As you know a turbo induced much larger quantities of air, and a lean condition can cause pre ignition, or worse, detonation, which if passed across pistons not designed for forced induction will crack ringlands with ease.

Piston meltage is also a possibilty.

[nx468]

Originally Posted by Still_Good

I was actaully speaking to the tuning process, of tuning air/fuel mixture for maximum performance.
As you know a turbo induced much larger quantities of air, and a lean condition can cause pre ignition, or worse, detonation, which if passed across pistons not designed for forced induction will crack ringlands with ease.

Piston meltage is also a possibilty.

Anyone that knows carburetors will tell you fat is where its at with Nitrous and Forced Induction. But your right it is easy to lean a motor out on a carb , rather then fuel injection. You need to know your jet sizes , with any Holley designed carb they always have technical support on their carbs to help you with a Wet Flow sheet and proper jettings before you even start the motor(for the unexperienced). www.pro-system.com Now they already send you the carb ready for bolting on without worry about jet sizes and if the motor is too lean, they go over every detail before you even purchase or send your carb to them. They also send you Wet Flow sheets on the jettings so that if track conditions change or wanting to pick up extra tenths due to the air quality. Now the piston subject for a Forged Piston to melt it while running lean , this goes back to throwing money away. When you break in a motor 2 of the most important things to watch after the break in cycle is Pulling a Spark plug and checking the color to see if your running lean or not. And also that your timing is not too far advanced (normally you want a few degrees retard) . But like I said Fats where its at so a little darker color on your plug would be just right for FI or Nitrous.

But I know what your talking about Ive seen many people buy blowers and Nitrous and not know what they are doing and they melted down pistons on their first run at the track cause they was too lean and didnt know to pull a spark plug to check it or had too much advance which caused it to run leaner and same effect. Im with you on the Fuel Injection , but as far as money is , Im with the carbs. And always PSI forgot to add that in , PSI is very very important so your not all the sudden running out of fuel when the bowls are empty. Did you know you can lean a motor with Fuel Injection without proper PSI feeding it, seen that done as well.

[Joe SS]

If this question is "is it possiable to run a carbed turbo sbc?" then yes, its possiable, just about anything is possiable. In my honest opinion I would not even consider putting turbo on a carbed motor, tuning is going to be a real pain in the ass, I would recomend just getting a fuel injection kit. Its worth every penny. Turbos and carbs don't seem to mix well, fuel injection is the way to go JMO.

[Rekless]

Thanks for all your help guys,
i heard that you can modify the holleys for blow through, this is just for fun, not trying to make mass horsepower here you know. Just fomething to learn on
thanks

[nx468]

Originally Posted by Rekless

Thanks for all your help guys,
i heard that you can modify the holleys for blow through, this is just for fun, not trying to make mass horsepower here you know. Just fomething to learn on
thanks

Hope this will help you out http://www.bob2000.com/carb.htm
http://www.vs57.com/carb.htm
And good luck