Sorta overheating/other?

[Jonnychadootz]

Most of u guys (regulars) know I own a 97 Prelude (base) Well it seems the car is sorta overheating (technically not though) cause the temp reads fine. I have however noticed that when the air temp outside is about 70F or above my car gets really sluggish (not that it was a monster to begin with Seriously though, that to me means it is sorta overheating. Can I just get a bigger radiator (say a fluidyne) to alleviate that problem? The stock radiator is ridiculously small.What would u guys suggest? Please help me out here guys as this is rather annoying.

Also, and I'm sure u guys will love this. For a while the check engine light was on and the car was sluggish most of the time (very random). A friend of mine sold me an Apexi air fuel controller real cheap and I installed it. After I bumped the air/fuel ratio up a bit the check engine light went off and hasn't come back on since + the car has quite a bit of it's power back unless in above explained circumstances. WTF is that about (running too lean?)

Any help is appreciated Thanks in advance.

[01mmmz28]

you don't need to waste the time and money on a larger radiator. You problem is one of a few things. Try getting new O2 sensors installed, that will help.....check to see if your thermostat might be starting to stick a little bit, might be time for a new one anyway, and they are a cheap part and easy to install. Buy some electronics cleaner and remove your mass air flow sensor...DO NOT TOUCH the metering wires in the center, only spray them off and let them air dry. Take that metering crap back off your car that your friend sold you that a/f changing crap.....you are playing with fire with some gimmick crap like that IMO. The only real way to change a/f ratios is on a genuine laptop when your car is on a dyno with a wideband O2 hooked up to it, anything else is inaccurate and danderous to your car. I beleive there is a program used for hondas call HONData, try finding a local tuner to tinker w/ the pcm and see exactly what the issue is. Even if the "check engine" light is NOT on, the cars pcm stores that code in a history file and a can be seen w/ the right software. Also, make sure that you are using the recommended fuel type, or maybe your power loss was a case of watered down fuel, that too can make it sluggish and make the engine light come on as well.

[Jonnychadootz]

Thanks for the reply

The 02 sensors were changed less than 2 years ago (changed them myself, impossible to f*ck that up Honda's don't have MAF's they have MAP sensor (at least mine doesn't) (check/clean that?). The thermostat is a good idea. I'll change that bastard out since it is pretty cheap.

As for the A/F controller. All it really does is intercept signal the ecu is getting then modifies the signal so the ecu thinks it's reading a different signal which would make me think the problem is some kinda sensor? Though the only code I ever got back was P1457 (90) which is Evaporative Emission control system leak.

I have the Honda Tech manual and it says:

Possible causes:
Vacuum Connection
EVAP control Canister
Fuel tank pressure sensor
EVAP bypass solenoid valve
EVAP 2 way valve
EVAP control canister vent shut valve
Fuel tank
EVAP purge control solenoid

I did have a problem getting the car to pass emissions testing a few times. All the emissions related items have been changed recently enough (O2 sensors, EGR valve, Cat, tune up) As for the A/F controller it struck me odd as the check engine light went off as soon as I screwed around with the A/F ratio a lil bit. I agree with u that I probably shouldn't have the A/F controller but I don't want to take it off since it seems to be helping atm

[01mmmz28]

^ Like you said...." it is tricking the pcm" That may be a temp fix, but not the proper one.

and yes, weather it's MAF or MAP, clean it up anyways.

[JGT8229]

main bearring goin? could not be ggetting as much oil when its hott?

[Jonnychadootz]

MAF or MAP, clean it up anyways.

No doubt, I'll change the thermostat and clean up the MAP sensor. I'll let u guys know how it goes

main bearring goin?

I hope not...

[01mmmz28]

^ not a main bearing, that will not set off any overheating issues. Lack of luberication wont set off the temp gauge, only the lack of proper coolant flow or low coolant levels. I know this PERSONALLY....as I spun a rod bearing and 2 main bearings almost one year ago. You will definatly know that sound, it sounds like a fast pace ticking coming from the bottom end.

[Jonnychadootz]

Originally Posted by 01mmmz28

^ not a main bearing, that will not set off any overheating issues. Lack of luberication wont set off the temp gauge, only the lack of proper coolant flow or low coolant levels. I know this PERSONALLY....as I spun a rod bearing and 2 main bearings almost one year ago. You will definatly know that sound, it sounds like a fast pace ticking coming from the bottom end.

Whew ty for the update. Def not that.

Luckily the thermostat is only $20. I'll grab 1 and replace very soon. Hopefully a good cleaning will work for the MAP sensor cause those bastards are somewhere around $150. I really appreciate the quick responses

[JGT8229]

oo i thought he said his gauge read fine

[Jonnychadootz]

Originally Posted by JGT8229

oo i thought he said his gauge read fine

The gauge does read fine (not overheating according to the gauge) If it really was overheating I think the motor would have blown up already. The car just feels like shit (severe loss of power) if the temp outside is 70F or over. Also, it idles @ a lower rpm then too (should be 750-800rpm, but idles about 600-680) Which makes the idle rough.

[American Psycho]

Take off the air fuel controller. replace the o2. probably killed it.

[01mmmz28]

Does your car have IAC ( Idle air control ) ?

Take off any intake hoses/bellows and look into the throttle body while it is slightly being revved. You may see the throttle blade sticking, clean it and lube the blade. Just another thought while you are in there.

[Jonnychadootz]

Does your car have IAC ( Idle air control ) ?

I took the throttle body off and cleaned the shit outta it recently when i replaced the throttle position sensor.

Take off the air fuel controller. replace the o2. probably killed it.

I hope not...like I said though it struck me odd how as soon as I f*cked with the A/F just a point up (only in the rpm range it felt like shit) it keeps the check engine light off (it doesn't control the ECU only mods some signals, it monitors more than anything). I would love to know why the f*ck that is. What's broken/off? I'm interested to see if it passes emissions with the settings on. Cause I had trouble passing emissions before I had the A/F controller.

[American Psycho]

whats the TPS voltage at ?

[Jonnychadootz]

^^ Boogey Down

Originally Posted by American Psycho

whats the TPS voltage at ?

The voltage is between 4.6 - 4.9v full open throttle and is @ 0.5 - 0.7v full closed. The manual says it should be approx 5v @ FOT and 0.5v @ full closed position. I hope that's close enough. You'll probably know what I'm saying here, U can only turn the TPS so far to 1 direction or the other. It's turned all the way to 1 side atm.