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#1 (permalink) |
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Fanatic Tremekian
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Ok, I've had my 97 Prelude now for a lil over 3 years. Recently (within the past month or so) I've noticed the motor was running kinda rough. I dump 2 STP Fuel system cleaners in it and the motor runs fine. Then the tank runs out so I fill it up and it pulls the same rough running shit. So I dump 2 more STP Fuel system cleaners in it. Once again the motor is running fine. I also notice when I don't have the fuel system cleaners and I let the car idle for 10-15 min or so and then rev a lil I get the lovely unburnt fuel cloud coming from the tail, very briefly though. It's definitely not oil blow by or any of that shit, I know the difference in smell and color.
Whatcha guys think? Air/Fuel problem? Timing? I know the fuel system cleaners don't really do a shitload more than raise the octane rating slightly. Thats why I'm kinda leaning more towards air/fuel mixture or maybe the gas station I usually go to has shitty gas atm? I don't know, hit me with some ideas :thumb:
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Better to be Some1 for a Day... Than Nobody for a Lifetime.... |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Veteran Tremekian
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: On a national search to find burgh a dentist that will work on baboon teeth.
Posts: 4,812
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try this: change plugs and gap them according to factory specs, change fuel filter, run a full tank of 93 octane to help clear things out on top of a bottle of fuel injector cleaner. How does your fuel pump sound when you just turn the key forward w/ out starting it? It should make a slight hum when you turn the key forward and stop after 4-5 sec. If it makes a loud hum and takes longer than 4-5 sec. to pump in itial start up fuel, time for a new fuel pump as well. Cover the entire fuel system is your best bet.
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2001 Z/28 LS1. Texas speed cam 231/237 598/595 112 lsa, .660 lift springs,7.4 hardened pushrods, lid, LT headers,TSP X pipe,Texas speed "true duels",Richmond 4.10 gears, stud kit, Thunder racing girdle cover, Spec stg 3+ clutch, ARP rod bolts, clevite main and rod bearings, 25% underdrive pulley, SLP 85mm MAF,black ZR1 rims 315/35/17 Nitto DR's, BMR subframes, BMR LCA's, Edelbrock TQ Arm, BMR pan hard bar. LS2 timing chain and gear set, LS6 ported oil pump.... Tuned by R.P.M. Performance. All labor done my ME and a few good friends !!!!
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#4 (permalink) |
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Fanatic Tremekian
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No, actually the gas station that I usually go to is 6-7 blocks from where I live ( the 1 I think the fuel could possibly be shitty from) When I go to the parts store which is in another town (5-7 miles away) to get the Fuel cleaners, I use a gas station in that town. Always 93, nothing other than that has ever been put in the car. Figured I'd add that the cat and oxygen sensors are basically brand new as well and I have no check engine light on either
Something definitely feels wrong ![]() In reguards to your post 01mmmz28, plugs are brand new Bosch (u know the 4 post jammies) and Fuel filter has just been changed. As you can see above nothing ever went into the tank other than 93. Oh yeah and I checked the fuel pump like you said and it sounds fine and starts no problems l ![]()
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Better to be Some1 for a Day... Than Nobody for a Lifetime.... Last edited by Jonnychadootz; 25 Feb 2007 at 05:29 pm. |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Veteran Tremekian
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: On a national search to find burgh a dentist that will work on baboon teeth.
Posts: 4,812
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my money is on bad fuel delivery system, injectors and the pump. Just because you use an injector cleaner does not mean that they are clean. The solvent that a garage uses is alot moer potent than what comes in the bottle from autozone.
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2001 Z/28 LS1. Texas speed cam 231/237 598/595 112 lsa, .660 lift springs,7.4 hardened pushrods, lid, LT headers,TSP X pipe,Texas speed "true duels",Richmond 4.10 gears, stud kit, Thunder racing girdle cover, Spec stg 3+ clutch, ARP rod bolts, clevite main and rod bearings, 25% underdrive pulley, SLP 85mm MAF,black ZR1 rims 315/35/17 Nitto DR's, BMR subframes, BMR LCA's, Edelbrock TQ Arm, BMR pan hard bar. LS2 timing chain and gear set, LS6 ported oil pump.... Tuned by R.P.M. Performance. All labor done my ME and a few good friends !!!!
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#6 (permalink) | |
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Fanatic Tremekian
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Quote:
Such as a motor (neither have the space nor equipment) or a tranny. The car is rather well maintained, I hope its something stupid.
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Better to be Some1 for a Day... Than Nobody for a Lifetime.... Last edited by Jonnychadootz; 25 Feb 2007 at 05:20 pm. |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Fanatic Tremekian
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It's possible you have a stuck open injector that is just dumping fuel. It's also possible the exhaust valve(s) have a problem and are thus letting unburnt fuel past them.
So either you've got too much fuel in the cylinders, or the exhaust valve(s) are shot. You can check the valves easy with a leakdown tester. You should be able to rent one from an autoparts store. You bring the piston to TDC and apply compressed air to the cylinder. If you lose pressure, feel the tailpipe for leaking air. Once you rule out the valves, you can be confident it's a bolt-on affair and can begin troubleshooting the fuel path (injectors, fpr, etc.)
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A good thread is like a miniskirt. Short enough to keep you interested, and long enough to cover the entire subject. I DON'T CARE IF IT MAKES PANCAKES AND GIVES BLOWJOBS THE CAR IS STILL FWD. |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Fanatic Tremekian
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The stuck injector would explain the shitty gas mileage and power loss, but wouldn't the check engine light come on if an injector was screwin up? Also, I find it weird that dumping 2 fuel injector cleaners seem to (in most part) take care of the problem temporarily
How do I check the injectors? If I take them off and inspect them would it be obvious if 1 was messed up? Or do you just check each 1 to see if it sprays right ![]()
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