clutch problem, please help

[driftphenom]

ok, so my s13 has been sitting in my yard for a liltle over a year while i lost my license. it starts fine and it did shift fine. but as i continnued to drive it the clutch had less and less resistance and it got to the point where i could push it to the floor and it wouldnt pop back out for a second .the actual clutch itself is good i think it doesnt slip or anything, its something to do with the pedal and things i believe. it also would not go into 1st or R from a stop without a little extra umph., but now the clutch has zero resistance, it doesnt even engage at all, it drops tu the floor and never returns, i just my license back and now i cacnt drive again:mecry: please help me with any suggestions on problems before i start ripping everything apart

[skylight]

Try bleeding it first.

if that fails follow the line there is a damper gizmo bypass that as they tend to jam.

if not its one of 2 other things clutch master or slave

here is a combo master and slave ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/89-90...spagenameZWDVW



To bypass the damper
http://garage.projectraine.com/conte...tchdamper.html
Remove Your Clutch Damper
(S13/S14)

The clutch damper is one of those "free mods" that you can do to increase the pedal feel and response of your clutch, whether you're running bone stock or with upgrades. By removing the clutch damper box and related lines, you eliminate a lot of the clutch fluid's pathway, but the end result is a more direct clutch pedal feel.

Many 240sx owners purchase a separate stainless steel clutch line and perform this mod. However, you don't necessarily need the upgraded line to remove your clutch damper. The mod was done on my car without any extra lines or components

[driftphenom]

thx for the help, me and my dad tried to bleed it with little success, as i dig deeper, im quite sure its the master or slave, i seem to be leaking fluid somewhere but no luck finding, thxor all your help ill get back when i get some progress
p.s. is there any way to test the master and slave seperatly to avoid buying something i dont need?, oh yeah, air bubles come up through the resevior when i pump the clutch-if that helps your diagnosis

[Driz26]

It's ur clutch master cylinder for sure. Happened to my MR2. I'd replace them both(master and slave) as it'll be less trouble to worry about later on.

[01mmmz28]

if your car has sat for a long time, you may just need to replace a fitting as they can become a weak point over time. Try to use a vaccum bleeder, they work the best w/ hardly any effort on your part. I would re-bleed w/ a vaccum style bleeder, check for leaks, identify the leak, fix it, then fill w/ new fluid and bleed it again.

[Grale Guy]

Originally Posted by Driz26

It's ur clutch master cylinder for sure. Happened to my MR2. I'd replace them both(master and slave) as it'll be less trouble to worry about later on.

Yeah you can bet for sure if one has gone the other is on the way out to :thumb:

[driftphenom]

10-4 copy that i did replace them both, took less than an hour to do both, saved who knows how much money. got em both at advance for less that $40 works like a charm. but it doesnt idle smoothly, its supposed to idle@ approx> 700 rpm, but it willl drop to 400, then surge back up. like uhhhh-UUUHHH-uhhhh-UUUHHHH. like my sound effects? anyway any suggestions on that would be great too, but i think this thread is dead. thx anyway

[skylight]

Check your TPS

[Driz26]

Also check ur AFM.

[driftphenom]

ok thx

[Traction Issuez]

Idle Air Control (IAC) valve