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#1 (permalink) |
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Veteran Tremekian
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Alright, here's the deal...
I have a friend with a 99 Grand am gt. He was driving down the road and out of the blue the taillights(not the brakelights), fog lights, instrument panel lights(speedometer, tachometer, fuel gauge, etc... Just the lights). Car runs fine, all guages work, headlights work, and high beams aren't working right either. So obviously he can't drive at night, considering he can't read his guages and taillights are out. Need help guys. Anyone have any idea. Also, all the fuses have been checked. Any other ideas? relays? shorts?
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![]() K&N filter with modified lid, 52mm TB, ported plenum, Edelbrock High Flo runners, Stock baseplate, ported aluminum heads, Custom grind camshaft by DRM, Roller rockers at 1.5, High flow stainless valves, high perf springs, chrome moly rods, high volume fuel pump, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, MSD ignition, LT ceramic coated headers, full stainless exhaust out straight pipes, 700R4, stock 2:73 gears in D36. also Edelbrock valve covers, chrome break reservoir, 18" black ZR1s on Nitto 555s 275/40 |
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#2 (permalink) |
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LuCiFeR
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: hanging eddy wu from a tree and beating him
Posts: 11,951
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all the fuses have been checked? if i remember correctly there is more then one fuse box. or maybe the headlight switch is fuked. get a test light and search.
and the high beams and the rest of the lights might just be a coincidence, does he know for sure they worked before, it could be that they are burnt out. first i would check to make sure the high beams and rest of the lights not working are the same problem, they shouldn't share fuses or relays. get a bulb that you know is working for both high and low and try that.make sure all the fuses are good, check the grounds for the lights, see if there is power going to the lights and light switch in the dash. if there is no power to the switch then you got a broken wire if all the fuses are good, if there is power you got a broken wire after the switch. happy hunting.
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1st MEMBER OF THE KEEP IT TO THE STREETS FOUNDATION. ![]() go fuk yourself rams, my sig was just fine. |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Veteran Tremekian
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thanks for the help
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![]() K&N filter with modified lid, 52mm TB, ported plenum, Edelbrock High Flo runners, Stock baseplate, ported aluminum heads, Custom grind camshaft by DRM, Roller rockers at 1.5, High flow stainless valves, high perf springs, chrome moly rods, high volume fuel pump, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, MSD ignition, LT ceramic coated headers, full stainless exhaust out straight pipes, 700R4, stock 2:73 gears in D36. also Edelbrock valve covers, chrome break reservoir, 18" black ZR1s on Nitto 555s 275/40 |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Fresh Noob
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I had the same problem last year. I replaced the Volvo tail lights. The lights were functional but when used in my car, they are out. I had the problem for a week and that was really a headache. I ask my friend to have it fixed for me. He was able to do so. And I didn’t even ask how, I didn’t want to have confusion anymore. But, I guess it wasn’t right because the second time it would happen, I don’t know what to do.
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#6 (permalink) |
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Veteran Tremekian
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: On a national search to find burgh a dentist that will work on baboon teeth.
Posts: 4,845
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check for a bad ground cable. It could be touching something w/ a relative electrical conection and shorting out.
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2001 Z/28 LS1. Texas speed cam 231/237 598/595 112 lsa, .660 lift springs,7.4 hardened pushrods, lid, LT headers,TSP X pipe,Texas speed "true duels",Richmond 4.10 gears, stud kit, Thunder racing girdle cover, Spec stg 3+ clutch, ARP rod bolts, clevite main and rod bearings, 25% underdrive pulley, SLP 85mm MAF,black ZR1 rims 315/35/17 Nitto DR's, BMR subframes, BMR LCA's, Edelbrock TQ Arm, BMR pan hard bar. LS2 timing chain and gear set, LS6 ported oil pump.... Tuned by R.P.M. Performance. All labor done my ME and a few good friends !!!!
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