7 blown 15A ECU fuses...

[B18BSol]

What's up. Got a 97 Sol Si as most of you know with a 94 B18B swap with P74 ECU and on the way to work this morning the car died when coming to a stop and won't fire...keeps kicking the 15 amp ecu fuse in the fuse box under the hood...any ideas?

...further history available if needed, just ask :thumb:

[DriftingRz]

not sure, get a ford, but in ur sig its mispelled, its farvA

[B18BSol]

Originally Posted by DriftingRz

not sure, get a ford, but in ur sig its mispelled, its farvA

Thanks for the insight but at least you said one thing helpful (see sig)

[sil-40]

Originally Posted by B18BSol

Thanks for the insight but at least you said one thing helpful (see sig)

you need to start checking for electrical shorts. trace the wiring until you find the problem.

[UKunt]

put a 25 in there lol.

[B18BSol]

Originally Posted by burgh

put a 25 in there lol.

Riiiight, and fry my ecu...:thumb:

Actually, I found out today that the 31 fuse location in my fuse box has only one thing on it, PGM-FI relay (programmed fuel injection relay) and it is common for that to go out. If it is bad, the fuel injection won't fire and it will kick the fuse cause it's grounded out inside.

PGM-FI relay $56
work at honda cost $34, brand new in the wrapper, and it's just under the dash above the under-dash fuse box. HOOORAY! I'll let you know if it works :thumb:

[v_dub_ya]

Originally Posted by B18BSol

Riiiight, and fry my ecu...:thumb:

Actually, I found out today that the 31 fuse location in my fuse box has only one thing on it, PGM-FI relay (programmed fuel injection relay) and it is common for that to go out. If it is bad, the fuel injection won't fire and it will kick the fuse cause it's grounded out inside.

PGM-FI relay $56
work at honda cost $34, brand new in the wrapper, and it's just under the dash above the under-dash fuse box. HOOORAY! I'll let you know if it works :thumb:

my next door neighbors civic had the same problem, left him stranded in the middle of an intersection and the relay did fix his problem, hope it fixes yours

[/NDA]

buy 2 and keep 1 in the glove box... in case you get lonely at another intersection...

[B18BSol]

Originally Posted by /NDA

buy 2 and keep 1 in the glove box... in case you get lonely at another intersection...

Well, bad news...I think

I got the new relay and hooked it up and POP, the fuse still blew :banghead: have I mentioned I hate electrical problems?

Next step, check with local tuner shop to see if the main relay for the 94 Integra and 97 Del Sol are interchangable. The one under the dash is a RZ-0132 and the one my Honda store gave me for the stock Del Sol is a RZ-0157. I am being told that they are the same internally so it shouldn't matter which one it is, the reason they are different is just from different plants. I am going to check with tuner shop for sure because for some reason I have a different one than the one the car came with with the D16Y8 vs the new B18B.

NOW, that being said, if they are interchangable (90% chance) then I have to check continuity from relay to fuse box and then from fuse to ground which is 95% change the problem, cause the fuse is blowing before power ever gets to the PGM-FI relay.

...have I mentioned I hate electical problems? :banghead:

...to be continued.

[B18BSol]

***UPDATE***

Alright, check the wiring schematic and found that the ECU fuse is ALWAYS HOT which means it should kick the fuse if it is the PGM-FI relay that is bad as soon as I put the fuse in, BUT IT DOESN'T (insert dramatic music here - DU DU DUAAAAAHHHH!)

The fuse kicks when key goes to Accessory position only, which eliminates another possibliity, the fuel pump. The fuel pump only turns on in ON or CRANK mode and the fuse is already blown in ACC position before it gets to those, which means the PGM-FI relay CAN'T tell the fuel pump to turn on, which is why there is no gas, NO STARTING (more dramatic music doo doo doo, DUDAAAAAAAH!)

Therefore, it is highly likely that it's something within the stereo (which I just installed a new one and electically taped many of the behind the dash wires instead of using crimp connectors). If any of those wires are coming loose from the tape getting hot and touching the body, it would ground out and blow the fuse on that circuit. (DAAAAH DAAAAAA!!!)

NOW, what I'm going to do is remove ALL fuses in the under-hood fuse box and try to start the car with only the ECU fuse in. It should start. Then while running I will put in the fuses one at a time until one of them causes the ECU fuse to blow and I'll know what circuit it is, then I can further diagnosis. More than likely I will be removing the deck wiring harness and securing all the wire connectors with crimp connectors instead of tape .

...to be continued... :thumb:

[/NDA]

i hate wiring so very much

[B18BSol]

Originally Posted by /NDA

i hate wiring so very much

Indeed

[B18BSol]

***UPDATE***

I F#@$ING HATE ELECTRONIC PROBLEMS!!!!!!

Took ALL the fuses out of the under hood fuse box and turned the key to ON and it STILL kicks the ECU fuse #31. That eliminates the stereo causing it. Besides, fuse 23 is good, so it's not the stereo. Son of a. Tried putting in the fuses one at a time but it NEVER kicked the fuse in the ACC position (I was wrong about what position it was kicking the fuse, turns out it is ON only, not ACC) but always in the ON...a pile of 15A fuses blown and I'm still clueless.

Once again, the ECU fuse is always on, so why the hell is it kicking the fuse only when the key is to ON? It should blow as soon as I put the fuse in the slot, even with the key out! So I trace the schematic to see what on the circuit is coming on when the key is in the ON position. Nothing. Only thing on that line is the PGM-FI relay and it brand new and grounded. Besides, like I said, if it was the relay it would blow the fuse right away. If it was something else it would blow a different fuse. (Loading glock...)

I traced the schematic even further down the line and found two items that are on a switch, although they are still supposedly on the same circuit that is always on. What-the-fvck-ever. They are:

Secondary O2 sensor, which I don't have since the OBDI swap. Fvck.

Fuel Pump.

That fuel pump is going to be checked today, unhooked and turning the key again to see if the fuse blows. If it does, I'll be setting the car on fire with Napalm. If not, I gotta see where it is grounding, or if it's just bad. Oh joy.
I'll keep you up to date. :banghead:

[v_dub_ya]

ive got a similar problem with my accord, drove fine yesterday and this morning, no start it would just spin over

im leaning towards the fuel pump relay, gonna take my spark tester home during lunch and eliminate if its a spark problem and then go from there

anyone know where the fuel pump relay is on a 1991 Honda Accord EX 4dr?

[B18BSol]

Originally Posted by v_dub_ya

ive got a similar problem with my accord, drove fine yesterday and this morning, no start it would just spin over

im leaning towards the fuel pump relay, gonna take my spark tester home during lunch and eliminate if its a spark problem and then go from there

anyone know where the fuel pump relay is on a 1991 Honda Accord EX 4dr?

Alright, there is no fuel pump relay, it is the Main Relay or PGM-FI relay that turns the fuel pump on...which is under the dash by the under-dash fuse box on the drivers side of vehicle. I will post pics when I get home from work cause my work computers won't allow web hosting sites (tinypic, imageshack, etc) to work. First, I would check to see if all your fuses are good in the fuse box in the engine bay. Check to see if the ECU fuse is blown, that is the curcuit that has the PGM-FI relay on it. If it's blown, it is not going to fire up the fuel pump and no start for you. Most people its the distributor, but not in my case