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Old 14 Dec 2006, 07:45 pm   #1 (permalink)
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Alright, I've got a couple grand into my stang at the moment, pretty much have all the more costly bolt-on upgrades covered. I figure I only have a few things left to do before I run out of things that don't cost close to a grand. Shifter, ignition, springs/shocks (front needs lowering bad), and maybe a chip are all I can think of. As far as I know that adds up to about 600 dollars in mods for next summer.

What should I go after first, and am I missing any other basics that aren't already listed in my sig?
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Project - 1986 Mustang LX convertable 3.8 with a 3-speed auto...a couple years later, we'll call it a 1990 GT convertable 5.0 5-speed with the following mods: lunati cam, 3.73 gears, 2.5 inch exhaust (minus cats, plus flowmasters and some headers), stock e7 heads with some porting and bigger valves (powerheads.com). Tubular GT40 intake, 24lb injectors, bigger MAF and TB. Roller rockers (1.6), under drive pulley kit.
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Old 14 Dec 2006, 07:48 pm   #2 (permalink)
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Well I dont know how you Drive. but im more a auto cross kinda driver. When i first got my 2001 GT i was like WTF these brakes have got to Go

Normal speeds the stock is ok. but repeated stops over 120mph+ like 2 there on fire.

So id go with a cobra brake swap. for all that extra power under he hood.
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Old 14 Dec 2006, 08:00 pm   #3 (permalink)
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Have you installed/bought everything listed in your sig? if so ya, i'd say go with beefier brakes or stiffen up the suspension a little. OR invest in a hardtop. I don't know if they make hardtop conversions for foxbodies, as im a gm man myself, but maybe ditch the vert and get a fiberglass top
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Old 14 Dec 2006, 08:05 pm   #4 (permalink)
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Yeah, I should probably put that in the sig too, I do have the 5 lug conversion with the cobra brakes, 93 cobra R master cylinder, some kind of adjustable proportioning valve, stainless steel lines all over...pretty much all you could ask for in terms of brakes on a mustang.

Do the chips need to be tuned at a shop or do they come with some sort of program already on them?
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Daily Driver - 1985 VW GTi 8v, totally stock minus the stereo and speakers.

Project - 1986 Mustang LX convertable 3.8 with a 3-speed auto...a couple years later, we'll call it a 1990 GT convertable 5.0 5-speed with the following mods: lunati cam, 3.73 gears, 2.5 inch exhaust (minus cats, plus flowmasters and some headers), stock e7 heads with some porting and bigger valves (powerheads.com). Tubular GT40 intake, 24lb injectors, bigger MAF and TB. Roller rockers (1.6), under drive pulley kit.
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Old 14 Dec 2006, 08:10 pm   #5 (permalink)
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I've also got a pretty stiff frame for a vert, running maximum motorsports connectors in addition to the stock subframes that came on the 90 gt donor car. So I've got the chassis stiffened as much as possibly without getting a cage, but I'm planning on that whenever I can get a stroker anyway.
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Daily Driver - 1985 VW GTi 8v, totally stock minus the stereo and speakers.

Project - 1986 Mustang LX convertable 3.8 with a 3-speed auto...a couple years later, we'll call it a 1990 GT convertable 5.0 5-speed with the following mods: lunati cam, 3.73 gears, 2.5 inch exhaust (minus cats, plus flowmasters and some headers), stock e7 heads with some porting and bigger valves (powerheads.com). Tubular GT40 intake, 24lb injectors, bigger MAF and TB. Roller rockers (1.6), under drive pulley kit.
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Old 14 Dec 2006, 09:14 pm   #6 (permalink)
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sounds like you've a nice toy
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Old 18 Dec 2006, 06:38 pm   #7 (permalink)
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cut the front springs down to lower the front a little or use four cylinder springs

You have all the basics covered it sounds like.. what about some that I didn't noticed or possibly over looked plus I have no idea what your building this car for so i'll mention a few things i've done for some street racing.

afpr
torque strap or solid motor mounts
delete ac
delete smog pully
convert to manual rack
relocate battery to hatch
remove front sway bar
alluminum driveshaft
headers
dumps


Hows your trans holding up?? I know I toastd two stock t5's and once custom build with all the good stuff and one hd t5 before finally swapping to a t56 when money allowed... if you have the stock t5 the best clutch i've ever seen /had was the center force dual friction one.. only problem is it's so strong that you'll be replacing your ujoints alot.. unless you upgrade to spyder u joints.

after that i'd save for a vortech or paxton setup.. I wouldn't recomend any others unless you have a nice supply of money to fix head gaskets and sc head seals on a regular basis..

if you money is tight.. just make sure you have the parts you want then have it dyno tuned so you know your getting the most out of your combo
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